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Will Food Safety Standards Take the Puff Out of Kerala Pappadam?

Will Food Safety Standards Take the Puff Out of Kerala Pappadam?

Key Update

What makes Kerala pappadam puff up dramatically when it hits hot oil? The answer may lie partly in its moisture content. That familiar puff, delicate bubbles and crisp texture have long been part of the Kerala dining experience. Now, the moisture behind these characteristics is at the centre of a food-safety debate.

Kerala pappadam manufacturers are raising concerns over the 15% maximum moisture limit for papad under FSSAI standards, arguing that applying the requirement to the traditional Kerala variety could affect its ability to puff and develop its characteristic texture.

Why does moisture matter?

Moisture is an important food-quality and safety parameter. It can influence texture, shelf life and microbial stability, which is why maximum moisture levels are specified for many food products.

But in pappadam, moisture also affects what happens during frying. According to the Kerala Pappadam Manufacturers Association, the traditional Kerala variety contains more moisture than products such as North Indian masala papad and appalam commonly made in Tamil Nadu and Karnataka.

When pappadam enters hot oil, its moisture rapidly turns into steam. The resulting expansion helps it puff up, producing the airy texture and bubbles that consumers associate with Kerala pappadam. Manufacturers, therefore, argue that reducing moisture to meet the prescribed limit could alter the product’s appearance and texture.

Where does food safety come in?

While moisture can help create the desired texture, higher moisture can also affect a food’s stability and shelf life. Depending on the food and storage conditions, greater available moisture can create conditions that support microbial growth.

This is why moisture limits are an important part of food standards. They provide manufacturers with a measurable benchmark for controlling product quality and safety. The concern raised by Kerala manufacturers, however, is whether a uniform moisture limit can adequately account for traditional varieties that differ in ingredients, processing methods and characteristics.

The issue is therefore not whether traditional pappadam should be exempt from food-safety requirements. Rather, manufacturers want the distinctive characteristics of Kerala pappadam to be considered while applying those requirements.

Manufacturers seek intervention

The Kerala Pappadam Manufacturers Association has alleged that Food Safety officials have imposed fines on manufacturers whose products exceed the prescribed moisture limit. Association State president Vineeth Prarath said the organisation plans to approach the State Food Minister and the Food Safety Scientific Committee, seeking consideration of the traditional variety’s characteristics while maintaining food-safety standards.

The dispute highlights a broader challenge in regulating traditional foods. Standards need to protect consumers, but they must also be practical and scientifically appropriate for products that can vary significantly across regions.

For Kerala pappadam makers, the question is whether meeting the moisture requirement could change a product consumers have known for generations. And for consumers, there is one simple question: if the moisture changes, will the famous puff change too? The answer may ultimately depend on how regulators, scientists and manufacturers balance food safety, product quality and traditional food characteristics.

Source: Manorama 

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